When Gary Smith, ’15, and Joshua Hall, first set foot on the campus of Michigan State University, they never imagined their paths would lead them to making award-winning cheese. Yet today, as the proud owners of Leelanau Cheese Company, they have combined their Spartan spirit, scientific expertise and passion for dairy to craft some of the best cheese in the world — earning a prestigious Super Gold medal at the World Cheese Awards.
Spartan Roots of Two Cheesemakers
Smith’s journey started with a different vision. Originally a kinesiology major at Brigham Young University, he transferred to MSU with aspirations of becoming a doctor. But fate and a call from his friend Josh about a job at the MSU Dairy Plant led him down a new path.
Hall, on the other hand, had already found his calling at MSU. Working in the dairy plant, he was captivated by the art and science of cheesemaking. The opportunity to oversee the entire process, from the farm to the finished product, sparked his passion. Under the guidance of faculty members like Dr. John Partridge and John Engstrom, he was sent across the country to learn from master cheesemakers, further cementing his expertise.
Together, the two Spartans honed their craft in MSU’s dairy program, competing in national competitions and winning accolades for their cheeses. It was there that they first envisioned turning their knowledge into something tangible — something delicious.
The Art of Cheesemaking
After nearly a decade of experience at MSU, Smith and Hall saw an opportunity they couldn’t pass up: the chance to take over Leelanau Cheese Company, a beloved Michigan creamery known for its traditional Raclette cheese. The previous owners, John and Anne Hoyt, wanted to sell and the timing felt right. Armed with complementary skills — Hall as the master cheesemaker and Smith as the food safety expert — the duo leaped into entrepreneurship.
However, stepping into an already successful business came with its challenges. Balancing innovation with the Hoyts’ legacy required careful planning, long hours, and an unwavering commitment to quality. “We wanted to preserve traditional practices while also applying the deep scientific knowledge we gained at MSU,” said Hall. “It’s about understanding what makes a great cheese and how to ensure consistency without losing the craftsmanship.”
Science (and Art) of World-Class Cheese
At Leelanau Cheese, Smith and Hall approach cheesemaking with meticulous attention to detail. From selecting the highest-quality milk sourced from local Michigan farms to ensuring strict food safety standards, their process is both an art and a science.
Their commitment paid off. In just a few short years, they entered their Raclette cheese into the prestigious World Cheese Awards — and won big. Their mild Raclette took home the Super Gold medal, ranking among the top 100 cheeses in the world out of over 4,000 entries.
“There’s no secret to great cheese — just great milk, careful handling and scientific precision,” Smith explained. “Michigan produces some of the best milk in the country and we make sure every step of our process honors that.”
Joy of Cheesemaking: Favorite Cheeses
Though their expertise spans multiple varieties, Smith and Hall have their personal favorites. For Hall, Alpine-style cheeses like Gruyère and Comté hold a special place in his heart. “I love their complexity, the nutty, caramelized flavors, and the way they transform when melted,” he says. But when it comes to making cheese, he takes great pride in crafting their award-winning Raclette, which he describes as “the perfect balance of creamy, nutty and smooth.”
On the other hand, Smith has a deep appreciation for traditional cheddar, particularly clothbound cheddar, which he has experimented with at Leelanau Cheese. “There’s something so satisfying about the aging process of a good cheddar. The depth of flavor you can achieve is just incredible,” he notes. However, he admits that when their Raclette is in peak condition, it’s his absolute favorite to make and eat. “There’s nothing quite like it when everything aligns perfectly.”
Spartan Impact
Looking back, Smith and Hall credit MSU for setting them up for success. The hands-on experience at the dairy plant, professors' mentorship and the network of Spartan alums — all played crucial roles in shaping their careers.
“The Spartan community is unlike any other,” said Hall. “We continue to stay connected, whether it’s helping teach cheesemaking courses at MSU or mentoring aspiring food scientists. It’s our way of giving back to the place that gave us so much.”
Their impact goes beyond their own success. Through their involvement in the Michigan Cheese and Dairy Guild, they are working to put Michigan on the map as a premier cheesemaking state — one that can rival even Wisconsin.
Future of Leelanau Cheese
What’s next for these Spartan cheesemakers? Expansion, but with intention. Smith and Hall plan to introduce new varieties of cheese while maintaining the hands-on craftsmanship that defines their brand. They’re also exploring ways to bring ice cream into their repertoire, leveraging their years of experience making it at MSU.
But at the heart of it all, their mission remains the same: to make world-class cheese that connects people to Michigan’s rich agricultural heritage. For Smith and Hall, being Spartans is a way of life. It’s about passion, perseverance and a commitment to excellence. And if their Super Gold medal is any indication, the world is starting to take notice.
A Message to Future Spartan Entrepreneurs
When asked what advice they would give to current MSU students dreaming of starting their own business, their answer was simple:
“Follow your dreams, but do your homework. Have a clear vision, make a solid business plan, and never be afraid to contact your Spartan network. Success doesn’t happen overnight, but if you’re willing to put in the work, it’s absolutely possible.”
With dedication, science and Spartan spirit, the possibilities are endless — even in the world of cheese.